Posted by The Moto Store on Oct 24th 2026
ATV & UTV Wheel Bearing Kits: How to Identify Yours
Quick answer: you have three reliable ways to identify an ATV or UTV wheel bearing. Pull the old bearing and read the number stamped on its seal (something like 6905-2RS), measure its bore, outside diameter and width with calipers, or look up your make, model and year in a kit maker's application chart and buy by that kit part number (for example an All Balls Racing 25-1xxx number). A model-specific kit is the easiest route because it bundles the right bearings and seals for one wheel. If you already know the bearing number, buying individual sealed bearings works just as well.
How to tell your wheel bearings are done
Bearings rarely fail all at once. Put the machine on a stand, grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock it. Any play you can feel, with the wheel nut tight, points to the bearing. Spin the wheel by hand and listen: a smooth hiss is fine, a gritty, notchy or rumbling feel is not. Rust-coloured grease weeping past the seal, or a hub that runs hot after a short ride, are the other common signs.
ATVs and UTVs eat wheel bearings faster than street bikes because they live in water crossings, mud and under the pressure washer. If one corner is bad, the others usually are not far behind, so it makes sense to do an axle pair at a time.
Three ways to identify the bearing you need
1. Read the number off the old bearing. Most sealed ball bearings carry a standard number on the seal face: 6905-2RS, 6202-2RS, 6005-2RS and so on. The first digits describe the series and bore, and the suffix describes the seals (2RS means a rubber seal on both sides). Clean the seal with a rag and read it before you press the bearing out. That number is all you need to order an exact replacement.
2. Measure it. If the number has worn off, measure three things with a caliper: inside diameter (the bore the axle passes through), outside diameter and width, all in millimetres. Standard bearings follow a fixed table, so 25 x 42 x 9 is a 6905 and 15 x 35 x 11 is a 6202. Measure the old bearing, not the hub, because the hub bore can be worn.
3. Look up your machine. Kit makers publish application charts by make, model and year. All Balls Racing kit numbers are in the 25-1xxx range (front and rear kits have different numbers, and some "both wheels" kits cover a full axle). ProX sets are listed by model in their titles. Find the kit number for your machine, then search our site by that number. One thing to know about our product pages: they are listed by part number, and most do not repeat the fitment chart, so confirm the number against the kit maker's chart before you order.
Which method should you use? If the old bearing is readable, method 1 is fastest and cheapest. If you want seals included and don't want to look up two or three part numbers, method 3 is the easiest.
Common ATV and UTV wheel bearing sizes
The table below covers the standard sealed bearings we see most often in powersports hubs. Sizes are the industry standard for each number; always confirm against your old bearing before ordering.
| Bearing number | Bore (ID) | Outside dia. (OD) | Width | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6202-2RS | 15 mm | 35 mm | 11 mm | Small dirt bike and youth ATV wheels |
| 6005-2RS | 25 mm | 47 mm | 12 mm | Many ATV and dirt bike wheels |
| 6905-2RS | 25 mm | 42 mm | 9 mm | Thin-section wheel bearing, common on dirt bikes |
| 6204-2RS | 20 mm | 47 mm | 14 mm | Mid-size ATV and motorcycle wheels |
| 6206-2RS | 30 mm | 62 mm | 16 mm | Larger ATV and UTV hubs |
Suffixes to know: 2RS or DDU means rubber-sealed both sides (what you want on a wheel), 2Z means metal shields (fine for dry use, less so for mud), and C3 means extra internal clearance, which some manufacturers specify for hubs that run warm. If your old bearing says C3, order C3.
Kit vs. individual bearings: what's in the box
A model-specific wheel bearing kit normally rebuilds one wheel and includes the bearings for that hub plus the matching seals. All Balls kits listed as "Both Wheels" cover both hubs on one axle, which is the usual way to buy for a rear ATV axle. Individual sealed bearings are sold one at a time, so count the bearings in your hub (most ATV wheels use two per hub) and buy seals separately.
Whichever you choose, replace both bearings in a hub together, fit new seals every time, grease the seal lips, and press on the outer race only. Pressing on the inner race damages a new bearing before it has turned once. A socket that matches the outer race diameter, or a proper bearing driver, is the right tool.
What we carry
- Wheel Bearings - kits and individual bearings, listed by part number.
- Wheel Seals - All Balls Racing double-lipped seals.
- All Balls Racing - brand page.
- All Balls Racing Rear Wheel Bearing Kit - Both Wheels 25-1313 - 2 bearings and 2 seals.
- All Balls Racing Rear Wheel Bearing Kit - Both Wheels 25-1012
- All Balls Racing Rear Wheel Bearing Kit 25-1001
- All Balls Racing 6905-2RS Double Sealed Bearing
- All Balls Racing 6202-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing 15-35-11
- All Balls Racing 6005-2RS Double Lip Seal Bearing
- ProX Front Wheel Bearing Set, TRX420 '07-10 (23.S110003)
- All Balls Racing Double Lipped Seal 30-5811
FAQ
Q: Can I replace just one wheel bearing? A: You can, but it is a false economy. Both bearings in a hub have the same mileage and the same water exposure, and pressing the hub apart is most of the labour. Replace both, and fit new seals.
Q: Do All Balls wheel bearing kits include seals? A: The ATV kits we checked are described as bearing and seal kits, and the "Both Wheels" kits list 2 bearings and 2 seals. Check the product page for the kit you are buying, since contents vary by number.
Q: Does the bearing brand matter if the number is the same? A: Dimensions are standardised, so any 6905-2RS fits where a 6905-2RS came out. What differs is seal design and internal clearance. For wheels that see water and mud, a double-lip rubber seal is worth having, and matching the C3 marking on the original is the safe choice.
Free shipping on orders $50+ (Lower 48).