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Accelerator Pumps

If your carbureted bike or quad stumbles or bogs the instant you snap the throttle open, then clears up a second later, the accelerator pump is the first place to look. The pump squirts a shot of raw fuel into the venturi to cover the lag before the main circuit catches up. Its diaphragm sits in fuel all its life, so it hardens, cracks, or gets stiff with ethanol and age, and the little check valves and springs around it gum up. The symptom is a lean hesitation off idle that no amount of idle-mixture fiddling will fix.

Rebuild, don't replace. You almost never need a whole pump: a rebuild kit gives you the new diaphragm, cover gasket, spring, and the small parts that actually wear. This page carries All Balls Racing accelerator pump rebuild kits (46-3005 through 46-3012). Each kit is matched to a specific carburetor family, so check the kit's fitment list against your year, make, and model before ordering, not just the carburetor brand — a Keihin FCR pump differs from a Mikuni pump even when they look similar in the hand.

While you have the bowl off. A stiff accelerator pump usually means the rest of the carb has aged too. Pair the pump kit with a carburetor rebuild kit for new jets, o-rings, and the float needle, and look at the float valves and gaskets and seals if the bike has been sitting. If the hesitation is on a two-stroke with a coasting or air cut-off circuit, the air cut-off valves section covers that diaphragm too.

Install tips. Clean the pump cavity and the squirt nozzle with carb cleaner and compressed air before the new diaphragm goes in, seat the diaphragm flat with the spring on the correct side, and snug the cover screws evenly. Then set the pump timing and stroke to the factory spec for your model so the squirt starts right as the slide lifts.

Free shipping on orders $50+ (Lower 48).

3 products