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Bearings & Seals

This page is the loose-parts bin: individual ball, taper and needle bearings and single oil seals, nearly all from All Balls Racing, plus a couple of SPI Namura top-end bearings. If you want a kit already matched to your bike or ATV, go to Wheel Bearings, Suspension Bearings or Linkage instead; this page is for replacing one part by its number or its size.

Reading a bearing number. The four-digit code (6001, 6206, 6305) identifies the bearing size and series, and it is the same across brands, so you can match it straight off the old bearing. The suffix tells you the seal: -2RS means a rubber seal on both sides, which is what wheels and most external pivots use. A listing with no suffix, such as the open 6305 or 6206, has no seals and is meant to run in oil inside an engine or gearcase. C3 and C4 are internal-clearance codes for engine bearings that get hot; use them only where the original bearing carried the same code. Taper bearings (20-1011, 20-1012) are for steering stems and some hubs, and the needle bearings with race (23-1002) are swingarm and linkage replacements.

Reading a seal. Seals are sized inside diameter x outside diameter x width in millimetres, and most listings here show those numbers, for example 38x62x8 or 42-59-6. Measure the old seal with calipers if the markings are worn off. All Balls' double-lipped seals have a second lip that keeps water and grit out. Use them anywhere a pressure washer reaches.

Fork seals live in Fork Seals & Wipers, hub seals in Wheel Seals, and crank and case seals under Gaskets & Seals. Free shipping on orders $50+ (Lower 48).

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